Helpful Information

Most in-ground pools lose on average approx. 1″ to 2″ of water weekly. This is due to evaporation, backwashing of the filtration equipment and splash out. A simple test to determine if the water loss is due to evaporation is to fill a bucket part way with pool water and mark the level on the bucket (lipstick works really well). Place the bucket on the top step of the pool or pool ladder. It is important to have the temperature of the water in the bucket and the pool equal. Mark the water level in the pool. After 24 hours, check the water level in the pool and bucket and the loss should be equal. If the water loss in the pool is greater, it is not due to evaporation.

Leaks are typically divided into three categories, suction, pressure and structural.

1) Suction leaks are characterized by air in the system. This will cause pumps to lose their prime and poor performance of automatic pool cleaners. Often suction leaks are located above ground. If you notice air in the system, check:

• Pump lid is in place and the “O” ring is not damaged
• Loose fittings at the front of the pump
• Water around the pump (this may indicate a leaking shaft seal within the water pump)

2) Pressure leaks are characterized by a loss of 2″ of water or more per week. It is important to repair these leaks promptly to save costly repairs in the future. If these leaks are left, they will erode the soil around the pipe and undermine the deck. We have the technology to detect underground leaks both electronically and with sound. This often allows us to pinpoint the problem without having to perform multiple excavations. Pool Services remains one of the few companies with this technology and equipment.

3) Structural leaks are characterized by a loss of 2″ or more of water per week. The first step in locating this type of leak is to pressure test the lines. If they hold pressure, the problem then must be in the pool structure or perhaps a defective hydro-static valve. Although these can be difficult to locate in a concrete pool the are seldom expensive to repair.

In a vinyl pool, we can locate leaks electronically and the repairs are usually minor. Structural leaks must be repaired before the pool is closed for the winter. If this is not done the pool will continue to lose water throughout the winter season. If a swimming pool completely drains during the winter, extensive damage my occur.

 These systems are now being installed on a large number of pools. They virtually eliminate the need to purchase, or handle a sanitizer, ie. Chlorine or Bromine. As these systems are computerized they maintain a very accurate chlorine level. The sanitizer is produced from the salt that is added to the pool water, and the weekly shocking of the pool is simply a matter of flipping a switch on the control panel. Pool services has installed a large number of these systems, gaining extensive knowledge of the product. 

If you are experiencing water clarify problems be sure to the test the following:

Chlorine Pool

• stabilizer level should be between 25 and 50 ppm
• the water temperature must be maintained below 85 degrees Fahrenheit
• free chlorine level around 3 ppm
• pool is being shocked weekly
• PH level 7.2 – 7.6
• alkalinity level, minimum – Concrete 110 ppm – Vinyl 120 ppm

Bromine Pool

• bromine level of 1-3ppm
• pool is being shocked weekly
• algaecide is being used regularly
• PH level 7.2 – 7.6
• alkalinity level, minimum – Concrete 110 ppm – Vinyl 120 ppm

If you are still experiencing water clarity problems it may be the filter. Pollen and suntan oils tend to coagulate the filter sand. This will reduce the flow and consequently result in poor water. In an environment where there are numerous gardens, or heavy bather loads we recommend a sand change every 3 to 4 years.